Monday, March 28, 2011

Spring...Is that you?

I returned late last night from my "Spring Break 2011". That included a long road trip 11 hours north to a friend's home for two nights and then back to Yerevan for an attempt at seeing the European Championship playoff game between Armenia and Russia. Despite having tickets we had all ready paid for we did not get into the game. Still, I had a great time shaming Armenia with other Armenians for their corruption. The positive outlook also comes from us being given quite a few free drinks too. The taxi couldn't pick us up until 3 in the afternoon to take us home so we did not arrive in Kapan until 10pm but...I am so glad to be home!
Today as I was walking the stairs down in the sunshine(yay my knee is well enough to handle the downhill hike!) I was greeted by an adorable puppy clumsily running toward me. Instant love. Puppies are back on the street and I am aching for one.
I had a meeting with World Vision who I will be working with a lot now on the Green Camps that I am directing in 5 different towns throughout Armenia. They will take place this summer leaving enough time for preparations and planning but having this connection with the NGO will be very beneficial. So, the meeting went well and I am excited and grateful about that. I needed to do some errands, and while purchasing some veggies was forced into buying some greens which I later figured out was stinging nettle. Awesome, now I have to figure out how to prepare that. For lunch though, without the stinging nettle, I made a lovely Caesar salad, even coddled an egg, for Robyn and myself which we enjoyed on the balcony.
I had to go back down to Kapan to tutor my Meri and was again force given a bouquet of violets from a very old tatik barely able to walk. So I now guess her staring at me every morning is not out of hatred, but kindness and curiosity, and that feels great. Then I was stopped rather abruptly in the street as a car came barreling toward me and slammed on its' breaks right as it got to me. "Margo jan! (continue incoherent Armenian question)". I look at the two men who clearly know who I am and realize I have never met or to my knowledge even seen them before. I notice in the back seat they have just purchased from the new, ridiculously large kiddie store an electronic car for one of their children. Out the window they shove at me instructions that are written in English, I ask them, "what" and they repeat the incoherent question again. I quickly graze the instructions to try and figure out what he is asking, find it, and reply. They could not have been more thankful. Men in Armenia being thankful, especially to women, is something you do not encounter very often. Naturally I am thrilled.
I met with Meri outside because the weather was so nice and I felt I did my part today to impart environmental awareness onto Armenians. We discussed the new Dolfinarium just opened in Yerevan and how it is awful and a perfect example of animal cruelty especially since there is no ocean anywhere near this country. Meri actually enjoys animals and responds, "yesa margo i know, a, because, a i watch da animal channel" She means Animal Planet in Russian. Small breakthrough. Then I also taught her "terms of endearment" and actual examples of terms. So there is at least one Armenian learning English who now knows the word "schnookums".
Lizzie and I made taco salad for dinner and enjoyed more sunshine before I headed back up the hill home. I was again accosted by teenage girls who now recognize me from the English Creative Writing Olympics and Poetry Recitation contests which I was a judge and facilitator for a few weeks ago in town. I expect to get several phone calls from them daily now.
It is still light outside today since we had our daylight savings this last Saturday and the local boys are playing soccer right outside my bedroom balcony door. A few of them saw me as I came into my room and gleefully waved. Of course this makes my heart soar.
I can attribute this new found optimism in the Armenians and myself to only one thing: spring is here.

Thursday, March 17, 2011

March Madness

I desperately needed to pay my landlord since I had not paid since the beginning of January. February I had the excuse of not being able to walk, and then I just hadn't had the time to make the trip out to her house since returning from Italy. I cleared my afternoon schedule to head out to the villages. This is a full day adventure usually. This time was no exception. I show up and we of course drink tea. The usual chit chat. I am harassed by Lena the 4 year old. We do some building. I get to look at every picture in the family photo album (again). Lunch is prepared. I say, in all seriousness, I need to leave at 3. We finish lunch and I ask what time it is, "3:20". GREAT. I scurry home to watch the last of the documentary films being shown by the British Council for our very own Film Festival. Riveting stuff.

She might be one of the only Armenians that smiles in photos.

Lena shows me her dance moves



Lena helps me build the castle

Our creation, sort of

Then the new guitar came out. She played and I danced. Tatik laughed.


Also, in honor of Women's Day we had another contest for Armenians to write an essay or draw a picture explaining the importance of women in leadership, or about a woman who is a strong leader in their life. This gem of a poster came back from Robyn's village from a little boy. Clearly this kid missed the point of how awesome women are.

Wednesday, March 16, 2011

January 27th-March 10th

Man, I was doing so well with that updating blog thing and then two months went by. Here is my story of what happened.
I went up to visit some volunteers and celebrate a birthday, best of all I got to play with 3 day old bunnies!



Plus we ate the most delicious khoravats and German Chocolate and Carrot Cake.

Amazing.
Then, I went to a conference to work on Project Design. It was very worthwhile and effective. I learned how to knit.

After the conference because we were near the only mountain where you go skiing in Armenia I, along with a few other volunteers, decided to go skiing. Great idea!

Until the weather turned, the slopes became awful and i took a horrific fall. Then it was a lot of pain killers during the taxi ride (read: booze), x-rays, MRI tests, ice packs and more pain killers and a whole week in Yerevan (alone, save some kittens) at the PC Medical Office.


With the doctors.

The prognosis was mostly that nothing too serious happened. My knees, both actually hurt really bad but the right one was much worse, have recouped some now from the gross yellow bruises and massive swelling.
I returned home with a man nurse in tow. The best surprise waiting for me was my Christmas package sent December 7th finally arrived.

Along with my V-Day package. Presents! Presents! Presents! Only two months later. Love that mail system. I got right to work with Pat Fecher (greatest woman in PC) on decorating the house with Christmas stuff and making holiday cookies.


I was able to venture to Italia and meet with the family for Mama Mo's 60th birthday. It was a fantastic time. I encouraged my knee to give me the least amount of pain possible. It cooperated most of the time.

Oh, I also cut bangs. Haven't had bangs like this since i was 6. (this is heading out on the water taxi to the cemetery in Venice)

Returned home with a great homecoming of friends.

Jay turned 30/OLD so I baked him a delicious Funfetti cake. LOVED IT! It was decorated with lots of the gingerbread house decorations that arrived two months after the appropriate time to make gingerbread houses. Sorry Mom.

So I am home now. Cooking delicious meals again that last for four days bc I still can't ration and cook for only one. In this photo is my favorite present from the Xmas package:the spatula. I have used it for every single meal since receiving it.
March 8th rolled around which is Women's Day. This is a very important day here. The men take off work, and so do the women so that they can cook a feast for everyone. Escaping the cold Lizzie and I stopped into our favorite little cafe to find it redecorated in burlap and burberry. We ordered hot cocoa and were brought some cake and disgustingly sugary fruity drinks too. And a cool napkin flower. Shnorhavor kinants or!

Thursday, January 20, 2011

Call me Julia Child

This has been a fabulous week! Tuesday I had coffee with Ruzanna, one of my students.

I decided to attend a conference which should be very helpful to myself and the armenian I am taking with me, then went to Meri, my tutee's, house for a delightful Armenian meal with her and her momma.


I had commented to Meri during a tutoring session how much I enjoyed haykakan dolma and belinchik. So, after a feast of those two items at her house, we set up to teach me how to make belinchik for Thursday night.
We met at the shooka to buy the goods, and headed up the hill to Cheramushka to start the preparation. I asked her how long it would take approximately. Her reply, "maybe 2 hours". Great we should be eating by 6:30. Wrong, the entire process took 4 hours. But well worth it!
First, we had tea.
Then we cleaned the meat, and started it a boilin.
Then, we mixed the eggs, milk, water, and flour to create the perfect consistency.

It wasnt quite perfect so we needed to add some more flour.

This was also Meri's first time making Belinchik, of course she had watched it be done numerous times, but we still had some difficulty making the crepe-like wrap.

Lizzie tried to find the perfect Armenian outfit in my coat closet to cook in.

They are starting to be the right consistency

questioning our ability to actually make this work

But we have success! little Armenian, well actually Russian, crepes!!

Lizzie and I attempt to make a crepe, Meri DOES NOT think we are doing an ok job.

Then we took the boiled meat and got it ready to grind.

Meat grinding time

Lizzie gives it a go and we have success.

Actually, we had the most success when Meri realized she hadnt told us to cut the big chunks of meat into smaller chunks of meat. She just took over and ground ground ground!

YUMMY

Next, grind the onions. Saute the onions. Add ground meat, dill, salt and pepper.

Then it is time to start wrappin and a rollin.




Time to start frying. Please add 7x too much haykakan oil to pan.


Fry lil belinchkis FRRRRYYYYYYY

Our first belinchiks are ready

Maladets us!

Feast time


Pure Enjoyment.

Lizzie and I concluded these were the best bilinchiks we have had in country. Light. Fluffy. Delicious.
Fear not everyone, I have this locked in my memory and will put it in the Volunteer Cookbook 2011.